Posts tagged with kenya.

Trying to help in ways that actually help

"It's a bit ridiculous that people assume just because we come from countries that have managed the issue of HIV relatively well, that we know how to manage the issue."

 

"Exactly, it is because our countries have managed the issues well, that I don't know anything about it!"

 

This was a conversation I had with an intern from the United Kingdom working for another non-governmental organization. He has been semi-coerced into giving a workshop on HIV/AIDS, but he has not received training on the issue, and felt extremely uncomfortable with the situation.

 

When I left Montreal to pursue my internship in Kenya, I did not expect much. I only knew that I wanted to make a positive impact on the community; and that after volunteering with HIV-positive children in Montreal, I wanted to work with the issue of HIV/AIDS through awareness and thus prevention.


However, after I attended community outreaches with my work, and ran a few sessions myself, I started to see a different picture.

 

While the sessions for primary schools appear to be somewhat worthwhile for the students, it is another situation for the youth. For instance, in a group session I attended, there was no need to explain what HIV/AIDS stood for, how the virus attacks the immune system, the incubation period, the window for testing, or the routes of HIV transmission. The participants knew all the answers. So how can the sessions be run in a manner that is not a waste of time for them?

 

There are many public and private institutions that strive to inform the public about HIV/AIDS, and by this point, Kenyans are very knowledgeable about the virus, and how to protect themselves. Instead of lecturing about the hard facts of the virus, now it is perhaps more effective to focus discussion on the stigma of AIDS, and why contraceptives are still not used, even when people understand the risks. Faced with such a knowledgeable crowd, the trainer becomes a facilitator and a question-and-answer format appears to be much more effective and enjoyable for the participants than a plain lecture style on information that has already been disseminated.

 

What I said to my friend at the beginning of the post was actually a paraphrase from a book called The White Man's Burden by William Easterly, which examines the ineffectiveness of foreign aid. He raises the concern of Western donors wanting to create one-size-fits-all, comprehensive, umbrella solutions without being sensitive to different cultures and realities in the field, which leads to poor implementation and aid that does not reach those who need it.

 

I find that my internship has been a humbling experience that makes me strongly aware of how difficult the process of "helping" can be. Without an understanding of the reality on the ground, it is almost impossible to propose any solutions that can be successfully implemented. One can have the best intentions and the greatest ideas, but if there is no need for the great idea, or if it is not feasible in the local reality due to cultural, religious, or financial limitations, then it is not useful.

 

For those who would like to work abroad in development work, I strongly urge you to spend time with the locals from the area, immerse and understand the culture, and then discover how you can make your own unique contribution in that community to maximize your impact.  

Tagged with kenya, education, ngo, hiv, aids | Comments (2) |

The human face of violence and prostitution

What do you think of a man who robs you? Or a prostitute?

Have you ever thought of why people break the law?

I'm not trying to justify such acts. That is not what I am trying to communicate. It is merely thought-provoking to see the other side of the story.

It is easy to think of "thugs" and robbers as cold-hearted bastards who just want to hurt you and take your belongings. It is easy to look down on them, and classify them as "bad people".

But are they really?

A few weeks ago there was an attempted robbery in an upscale neighbourhood in Nairobi. The robbers were shot by the police. I discovered there are only two degrees of separation between me and those men: some young people at my centre went to school with those robbers.

And they tell me this is a common story. A few years ago, some youths tried to rob a matatu (a kind of shared taxi) and were shot by a police officer who happened to be in the vehicle.

They tell me that in high school, sometimes their classmates would disappear for a few days, presumably to make a living this way.

They tell me that if you have no money ... really have no money ... then the easiest thing to do is to take a gun and rob someone.

Same story goes for young girls in the slums whose parents cannot afford their education, and they have no means of financial independence. The easiest and fastest sell for them is sex.

But at this point I am reminded of a video clip by the Canadian comedian Stewart Knight, called No excuses: "Whatever excuse you give me, I can give you 50 people that could've given me the same excuse, but didn't."

Poverty is a great motivation for crime and prostitution, but for every person who was driven by poverty to crime, there are many more who chose to escape another way.

Many of my friends at the youth centre come from similar circumstances. However, they chose to volunteer their time and acquire as many miscellaneous skills as possible - from driving, to computer design, to visual art, to peer youth education. Eventually, those skills got them paying jobs.

I also hear of robbers who, upon taking the phone and wallet of the person they are robbing, decide that the person should have fare to go home, and give back some of the money.

There are also robbers who return the bag and SIM card of the women they rob, and only take the valuables.

It is interesting to hear these stories that challenge traditional views of robbery. Maybe it's just important to remember to never dehumanize anyone or to dismiss their motivations. They are only human, and so are we.

It is a complex world we live in, but I am starting to believe more and more that our lives are shaped by our choices and our decisions, rather than our circumstances.

Tagged with poverty, kenya, choice, robbery, prostitution | Comments (20) |

When fish get water and people don’t

After two months in Kenya, I experienced an unexpected culture shock.

It was not the living conditions in the slums, or the policemen who take leisurely strolls around town holding their giant rifles, or the riots, or the tear gas from the riots, that gave me this unsettling sentiment; but the lavish lifestyle of the wealthy.

Recently, my work - the Youth Centre-Nairobi - ran a VCT and clinic outreach program in a small slum called Mitumba to provide testing and curative services to the local population.

The informal settlement houses around 4,000 residents, and there exists a jarring contrast between the settlement itself, and the fancy, Western-style housing - equipped with satellite dishes - directly adjacent. They are separated merely by a wall with barbed wires.

It is a well-known fact that almost every upper- and middle-class residential area in Nairobi has a slum nearby, but this is the first time I witnessed such proximity. An irony lies in the fact that many slums exist due to the beautiful residential area next door - these are the workers, and their families, who were hired to construct those houses; and it is more economical for them to build their own shacks next to work rather than commute on a daily basis.

Much aid has been poured into the larger, famous slums such as Kibera and Mathare, but the smaller slums such as Mitumba are still neglected. There are no water pipes or electrical wiring running through the area, nor is there proper waste or sewage treatment. The lack of access to clean drinking water has led to a cholera outbreak. It is one thing to read about cholera in "Love in the Time of Cholera" by Gabriel Garcia Marquez, and it is another to be told explicitly to avoid food from the area due to the possibility of contracting the disease.

On the open field where we set up our tents, one could see a giant water tank. It was a project initiated by the local MP to give the community a means of storing water. Unfortunately, the project was never completed, due allegedly to corruption, and now the walls are cracked in ruins. I am still not sure how to reconcile this image with the beautiful houses on the other side of the wall.

The next day, I attended a meeting at a place called Village Market elsewhere in town. I was not prepared for what I saw - a large-scale mall with architecture reminiscent of that found in sunny California: an open-concept verandah with food courts selling dishes at double or triple what I spend weekly on food; fashionably dressed "wazungus" walking around with sunglasses and high heels; high-end retail stores such as Mango that are found in North America; and fountains. Fountains for aesthetic purposes with free-flowing water. And two koi ponds. The entire city of Nairobi suffers from water shortage problems with water frequently and regularly cut to many parts, but this mall, catering to wealthy locals and foreigners, has water for fish.

In Mitumba, I could not eat, because of the looks the children would give me as I ate. We gave a banana to a small boy (at left is a photo of him eating the banana).

I know the world is not just, but reading about injustice and inequality on paper, and witnessing it within 24 hours, are completely different stories. I have not shaken the haunting emotional impact of experiencing Village Market right after Mitumba, and I hope I do not forget it.

I never before grasped the great fortune of having the ability to drink the water that comes out of my tap. I cannot say I really do now, either. I have only caught a glimpse of the other side, and only begun to grasp how lucky I am, how lucky we all are.

Tagged with poverty, wealth, slums, kenya, water, clean, drinking, mitumba, culture, shock | Comments (11) |

Speechless in Nairobi

 

"Well, when they see a black person in Canada, do they not run after them and shout out 'African!'?"

 

Speechless. If there is a word that describes my sentiments since I arrived in Nairobi, Kenya, "speechless" would be it. I have experienced more in the past few weeks in Kenya than I ever would in my ordinary university life in Canada.

 

Before I came here, I listened to endless "horror stories" about Africa and Nairobi - be it sanitary conditions, security, or cultural differences. I embarked on my journey expecting nothing, except the unexpected.  However, not being easily surprised definitely does not equate with indifference. It simply means I view the events around me with mild amusement, perhaps even due to over-suppression of my original emotions.

 

I work in the slum of Mathare in Nairobi. It is allegedly the third largest slum in Africa, as more than half a million people live there. It is difficult to describe the slums; one must experience them in person. However, I can start with the overwhelming scent. I think the smell of the slums is a perfume-maker's nightmare - a blend of garbage and human sweat and excrements. There is a small bridge over a stream of black water contaminated with feces, with mountains of garbage, and people brewing alcohol in giant, rusted tin cans. There are no houses, only shelters made of panels of tin. Families of five or more live in small, cramped spaces. How small? Imagine your elementary school classrooms, and quarter that land. Forget toilets and plumbing facilities, people do their  businesses wherever, which is part of the reason the water is so contaminated. I saw a man buy a sliver of toothpaste for two shillings, the equivalent of three cents. The slum is endless in sight, leaving the most idealistic and hopeful individual with a lingering taste of garbage, poverty, and cruel reality.

 

Which leaves one to wonder "what can I do to make a difference?"

 

In contrast to the poverty in the slums, is the bustling town centre of Nairobi. International, high-end hotels such as Hilton and the Stanley - which charges 1,000 shillings for a hour of Internet use, while the cyber café across the street charges 1 shilling per minute. Business professionals in suits hurry down streets cramped with people, cars, and privately-owned vans serving as buses called matatus. The traffic is constantly insane, arguably so are the matatus drivers that swerve between lanes of opposing traffic in an attempt to get ahead. "Hawkers" populate the sides of the streets as they sell goods on their blankets. They also stir up mini-riots periodically as they throw stones as the police who try to chase them away, who in turn throw tear-gas bombs.

 

Regardless of slum or city centre, though, one thing is common. Wherever I go, I encounter shouts of "mzungu!" or "chong chong ching chong," due to my lighter skin and my Asian appearance. I still chuckle in amusement whenever someone shouts out these words to me, because I am not sure how I should respond - should I break into song and dance? I think I am starting to understand how visible minorities feel. People almost always automatically treat me differently, sometimes positively, sometimes negatively. For example, while all Kenyans have to pass through security checks at the Hilton, I go with no questions asked; because of my skin colour. At the same time, the "hawkers" will always try to rip me off, and the children will always stare in shock at me; because of my skin colour. At one point, another Dutch intern and I jokingly remarked, "Clearly, we do not deserve names! We are merely mzungus." The director of the organization we work for then replied with the quote at the beginning of this post.

 

All of this said, I must stress that Nairobi is a beautiful city. It is undergoing a period of rapid development, and like most cities going through the same process, it experiences side effects such as polluted streets, occasional chaos, and disparity between rich and poor. However, in the midst of change, there is always progress and hope. There are people working on ensuring environmental sustainability while maintaining economic growth; educating the public on sexual and reproductive health; and teaching the concept and skills of entrepreneurship to empower youths to step out of the slums. These are only some of the projects I have encountered in my brief stay here.

 

I am happy to say that while I did feel despair and shock, my speechlessness has turned into a shrug with the lovely French phrase, "C'est la vie." This is the reality. Accept it, and make it better.

Tagged with poverty, slums, nairobi, kenya, mzungu, development, canada, rich, contrast, africa | Comments (2) |